Last Sunday a couple friends and I experienced one thing that every person who visits Latin America should do, go to a local soccer game! We got up bright and early and headed to La Bombonera, the famous stadium which holds the games for Boca Juniors. Boca Juniors are one of the most well known club teams in the world because of their domination in the Argentine soccer league, and for producing some of the greatest players in Argentine history. At one point the incredible but crazy Diego Maradona played for Boca Juniors, so that should give you enough information about their legacy.
Anyway, before I tell you about that beautiful fall night, with the perfect temperature and atmosphere to hold a fútbol game, I should let you know about our search for tickets and how RIDICULOUS it was! First, I must say no one knows really where to get tickets, how much they cost, when tickets go on sale, how many tickets each person can get, what time should you be at the stadium, etc, etc. One person would tell us one thing, while the next would tell you the complete opposite. This definitely caused frustration as we went to the pitch (fútbol stadium) 3 days before the Sunday game to purchase them, but left empty handed. During our families Saturday night dinner, my host family told me that I should be at the stadium at 7 A.M. promptly to get tickets. Well, with the Argentine life of going out until 5 A.M. that was not going to happen whatsoever. So, we left at 8:30 A.M. on Sunday morning. My host mother told me I was foolish for going so late but after I explained to her I am going anyway, she let me off. I got downstairs, greeted my security guard, and told him my mission for the day was to get Boca game tickets. He gave me an eerie look, and then explained to me that I am crazy for going this early when the game starts at 8:30 P.M...I left anyway.
But you see what I am saying..no one really knows on how to get tickets for the most popular sport in Argentina and for the most popular team, which is kind of weird. I met up with my friends at the bus stop, caught the 152 to La Boca, walked right off the bus straight into the ticket line at La Bombonera (Boca Juniors stadium), payed for a ticket worth 50 pesos, hid it in my front pocket, and left. Was that so hard?? I think it is kind of comical, but that is just how stuff rolls down here in South America.
After getting our tickets, we spent the rest of the day hanging out at a local park and the San Telmo feria that takes place every Sunday. The market is lined up on one narrow street in the Barrio San Telmo and goes on for over a mile. Everything and anything you could think of is sold there, so we did not have that much trouble blowing some time until the game started. We walked around, got some empanadas, and before we knew it, it was gametime! Boca can be a little, shall I say, sketchy, especially during the night, so we got to the stadium while it was still light out to claim our seats and get ready for an experience of a lifetime. It was definitely an experience I will never forget because truthfully, while I was walking into the stadium, it felt like I was going to war rather than a soccer game. There were literally 300 policemen on foot, a couple cavalries of mounted police, SWAT unites, and riot units everywhere to prevent anything. You see, people live and die for their fútbol teams here and when they come in contact with someone not of the same kind, it can be disastrous. Almost every night on the news we see major incidents occurring at these fútbol games, so to prevent it they take every police officer in Capital Federal and place them in or around the stadium. Not really, but that is just how it feels. Besides that, the game was amazing. The crowd was rowdy and San Lorenzo put up a good fight against the favored Boca team. Martín Palermo, who has the most goals in the history of the Argentine Fútbol Association, buried a beautiful shot in the back of the net, and Román Riquelme stuck a header passed the goalie too. When the goals were scored the fanatic fans were literally shaking the stadium. I was on the third tier behind one of the goals and I could see my section bobbing up and down, it was crazy.
The Boca fans and the San Lorenzo fans would go back and forth taunting each other with chants and songs, yelling and flailing their arms in the air. Here, I will make a little key for you so you can understand what was going on: After a great shot-OOOhhhhh. After a bad call-Ahhhhhh(alongside bad spanish words). While keeping possession of the ball and after every pass-OLAYYY, OLAYYY, OLAYYY! And then being yelled from thousands of mouths:
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
ya se acerca noche buena
ya se acerca navidad
para todas las gallinas
el regalo de papa
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
dale boca
dale dale boca
y dale dale boca
y dale dale boo
ya se acerca noche buena
ya se acerca navidad
para todas las gallinas
el regalo de papa
There were more songs that each side would sing, but this song in particular would get the Boca fans rowdy and in their case, ready for war. When the game was over, the visiting team got let out first and had a head start to get as far away as possible from La Boca and all the fanatic fans. All the Boca fans were literally blockaded in the stadium for 30 minutes after the game to make sure that the San Lorenzo fans left the vicinity and then, finally, we were let out..so crazy!
But really, all 'n all, the game awesome! That was probably the most legit soccer game I had ever been to, and I will definitely never forget that day. I did not bring my camera or anything else to capture the game and the unbelievable moments because in some areas it is just not worth bringing your nice stuff, and unfortunately a night game in La Boca is a time where it is not worth it. However, I think that you can imagine my experience pretty. Literally whatever you imagine a rowdy South American fútbol game to be like, it is exactly like that, and even more crazy.
Well I just finished the 8th week here at school, and that is past the halfway mark for the semester! I cannot believe how fast time is going here. Before I know it, I will be homesick for Buenos Aires. But enough counting down the time, lets count up until my next great adventure. I will be writing soon and keeping you all updated because my next incredible experience is around the corner.
Chao y hasta luego
